Material List:

– ( ) 8′ long pine tongue and groove boards

– ( ) 2” wide 3/4” plywood strips

– (2)  3” brass hinges

– (3) 2″  brass locking mechanisms

– (1) brass handle

– (3) speakers

– (8) 8′ x 1′ x 3/4” pine board

– (6) 1  1/2”  brass hinges

Tool List:

– tape measure, pencil, tri-square, level, chisel, hammer

– air compressor

– staple gun

– cordless drill, bits, drill bits

– table saw, jig saw, circular saw, sawmill, miter box

– angle grinder with hard wheel

– orbital sander with 120 and 220 grit pads

The upper cabinet space, above the driving area will be perfect for all my bedding storage. I have enough room for all blankets, pillows, and queen-size mattress pads. When crafting the overhead compartment I first ripped down 2” strips of 3/4” plywood, just the same as I had done with all the rest of the framework. With the cordless drill I screwed the plywood strips to the framework with 1 1/2″ self-drilling tap screws.

I measured, marked and cut the first piece of tongue and groove on the miter box. I am starting from the bottom and working may way up to the ceiling. After my first two runs I had to measure the next piece, and cut it out with the jigsaw, so that my opening would be clear. After this piece was installed I then worked my way up the sides, cutting each piece of tongue and groove on the miter box. The last piece which is butted up against the ceiling had to be cut of 45 degree angles on both sides to match up with the contours of the sidewalls.

Once the overhead storage had been tongue and grooved I can now built the drop-down compartment door. I cut three pieces of tongue and groove the same size, and with two pieces of the 2” wide 3/4” plywood I attached them to the door. I fastened the tongue and grove with the plywood using construction adhesive and my air powered staple gun.

Once the door was complete I then dry-fitted it into its’ location. I marked on the door and the upper piece of tongue and groove where the locking mechanisms would be attached, and on the bottom, where the hinges would be mounted. With a chisel I cut out the space for the hinges, and then screwed them together with torque screws. I fastened the locking mechanisms and then attached the door knob to open the cabinet.

I had two speakers lying around, and figured that while I was at it would install them. I marked them right in the middle of the overhead storage, and marked the cut out lines. With the jigsaw I cut out the rough opening hole and placed the speakers inside. Just as the receptacle boxes had a twist and turn screwable holding latch, the speakers do as well. I turned the tabs and then screwed them in with my cordless drill. I then replaced the covers and the speakers are set. The wiring had already been run through the cabinets before, and were long enough to go through the upper storage. I wired the speaker cables to the speakers and now the bus is a’ booming!

With the extra 2 1/2′ that I had between the kitchen counter and the back of my seat would be filled in with a closet space. I had to design this cabinet just right so that my bed would still drop, and not land on the closet. I also had to make it in such a way that I could put a clothing rod inside and hang my clothing from hangers. I took two pieces of the 8′ pine board and cut them down on 45 degree angles. I then pressed the one end up to the cabinets, and fastened the pine boards with the staple gun. I fastened the other side to the frame-work.

I then measured another 2 pine boards to follow the same 45 degree angle. I fastened them just as I did with the first set. In the inside of the closet I built two shelves, for shoe racks out of the 8′ pine boards. I attached them similarly with the staple gun.

Now the inside of the cabinet is built, I had to build a door, and a top piece to open up. I ripped down two pieces of pine boards to 2” wide. I then fastened them to the edges of the existing pine. This will allow an area for the hinge to mount onto. I cut two more pieces of  pine board on the miter box and attached them to the hinge. I then installed a locking mechanism so that the doors would not open on their own accord.

Once that was all done I had to build the top opening. With the existing scrap pine I cut the two pieces to length and similar to the overhead cabinet door, fastened them together with strips of the 2” wide 3/4” plywood. I cut both ends of the two boards on 45 degree gales so that they would rest lightly on the doors. Lastly I set the hinges on the upper part of the swinging closet door. Now, when grabbing clothing out of my closet, I unlock the doors, and pull them aside. Then lift up the top hinged closet cover and can remove my clothing off the hangers.

Douglas Fir

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